Ericeira: surf beaches, seafood and much more

About 45 kilometers northwest of Lisbon, lies the popular seaside town of Ericeira. This is a place of fantastic beaches and picture-perfect streets, where the lives of surfers, beachgoers and local fishermen come together harmoniously. You’ll find everything from traditional Portuguese seafood restaurants to trendy coffee shops with vegan cakes. You’ll hear different languages everywhere and see people of all ages. Ericeira has a unique atmosphere and is a great destination, for just a day, a nice long beach holiday or something in between.

Jagoz

Its location by the sea has traditionally made Ericeira a place for fishing and trade. In ancient times there was probably a settlement of the Phoenicians here. In the nineteenth century, Ericeira was an important port town, where many goods went through customs before being transported to the Portuguese hinterland. Export goods also left here for the Algarve and the Portuguese islands. When a railway was built through Portugal later that century, the port of Ericeira lost its importance.

Fishermen have remained dominant in Ericeira throughout the centuries. And with them the fishmongers, the boat builders, the lighthouse keepers and many others who earn their living on and around the Atlantic. This maritime population used to be seen as a separate ethnic group, referred to as Jagoz. Today, Jagoz is a designation for anyone born in Ericeira. On the boulevard in the centre you can see the statue of Jagoz do Mar, a tough, burly sailor.

World Surfing Reserve

There are currently twelve World Surfing Reserves in the world, of which Ericeira became the second ever in 2011. Together with North Devon in the UK, they are the only two World Surfing Reservers in Europe. Ericeira owes the title to eight kilometres of coastline with excellent and, above all, varied waves. From beginners to very experienced surfers can indulge themselves here. Once a year, the Praia de Ribeira d’Ilhas  hosts a competition of the professional World Surf League. Another world-famous surfing beach is the Praia do Norte. You don’t just encounter surfing on the beach; also in town you see surf shops and schools everywhere

Royal guests

The beaches and waves of Ericeira are the big crowd pullers, but the town itself is also very worthwhile. Beautiful narrow streets, cute squares and imposing façades are everywhere. For a long time, Ericeira used to be a favourite beach destination for aristocratic families and you can still see that in some of the buildings.

The royal family also liked to come here, but their most famous visit was certainly not a holiday. In 1910, the Portuguese Republic was proclaimed and the young King Dom Manuel II had to flee in a hurry with his mother and grandmother. They drove from the Palácio Nacional de Mafra to Ericeira, where their boat departed from the Praia dos Pescadores. Shortly after mooring, armed revolutionaries appeared at the quay. They were not in time to prevent the king’s departure, but Manuel could never return to Portugal.

Take a cliff walk

From the Praia de Ribeira d’Ilhas you can take a nice cliff walk towards the centre of Ericeira. The Praia de Ribeira d’Ilhas has plenty of parking space, so if you want you can park your car here. From the beach, take the stairs up to the statue of the surfer. Soon you can take a path to the right, to get to the cliffs.

During this walk along the coast you will come across the Forte do Milreu , an old defensive structure that is not much left standing. It dates from the time of the war with Spain in the seventeenth century and also had a military function at the beginning of the twentieth century. After that, there were all kinds of big tourist plans for this place, which were never realized until now.

Until the parking lot at Praia da Orelheira you can follow the path high over the cliffs, then take the main road for a short distance. Soon there is another footpath along the promenade, until the Ermida de São Sebastião, where the centre of Ericeira begins. Here you will also find the first of eight poems by Fernando Pessoa, which are written on signs along the coast. To enjoy it, you will need to be able to speak a word of Portuguese.

Ouriços

The name Ericeira is derived from the Portuguese word ‘ouriços’, which can refer to both sea urchins (ouriços-do-mar) as hedgehogs (ouriço-cacheiro). It was long thought the many sea urchins in the area gave the town its name, but historians discovered it was actually the hedgehog. Nevertheless, sea urchins are a famous local dish and there is even an annual sea urchin festival, the Festival Internacional do Ouriço-do-Mar (in March).

In everyday life, when there is mention of ouriços from Ericeira, it refers to the sweet almond cakes that you can buy in several pastelerias . Taste them, for example, at Casa da Fernanda with a view of the Praia dos Pescadores or at Casa Gama on the Calçada da Baleia.

Fishermen and their catch

The area where the fishermen work before and after their catch can be seen up close in the fishing port of Porto de Pesca at the Praia dos Pescadores. Come in the morning for the most action. The harbour area is large, with the unmistakable salty smells and screeching seagulls. Dogs scurry among the fishing boats, materials and vans, looking for discarded fish. Meanwhile, a few meters away, sunbathers enjoy the sun on their towels in the sand.

The catch is spread directly to the restaurants in and around Ericeira. So it’s a fantastic place to eat fresh fish. Three kilometres north of Ericeira is Ribamar, also known as the ‘capital of seafood’. If you like clams, crab, lobster or shrimp this is the place to be. You can choose from a large number of marisqueiras, restaurants that focus exclusively on seafood.

Praça do Jogo da Bola

The streets in the centre automatically lead you to the Praça da República. This is the official name of the cozy square in the heart of Ericeira, but everyone calls it Praça do Jogo da Bola. Plane trees and benches alternate in the middle of the square, while on the edge are terraces and shops. This is the perfect place to read something with a cup of coffee or enjoy everyone walking by.

Strolling through the streets

The streets around the square still hide all kinds of beautiful places. See the Igreja de São Pedro and the beautiful houses with bougainvillea and azulejos around them. On the picturesque Largo do Pelourinho there is an old pillory. A second pillory, the Pelourinho do Cruzeiro, is located nearby, on the Largo do Cruzeiro. In the streets around the main square you will find all kinds of nice shops with souvenirs, ceramics, surfing and beach gear, clothes and shoes. Also have a look at the Igreja de Santa Marta, in a place where miraculous cures of the plague are said to have taken place.

Casa de Cultura Jaime Lobo e Silva

What a beautiful building the Casa de Cultura Jaime Lobo e Silva is. Just for the outside, it’s worth going there. But also check the inside. In addition to the library and the auditorium of Ericeira, there is also a nice and free exhibition space. In 1919, the casino of Ericeira was established here, later supplemented by other entertainment. It closed in the ’70s to reopen as a cultural centre in 1995. It was named after Jaime Lobo e Silva, a historian and musician from Ericeira.

Viewpoints

The entire coastline around Ericeira is dotted with fantastic viewpoints. You will also come across them if you walk from the centre along the ocean in a southerly direction. From Praia dos Pescadores, walk along Rua Capitão João Lopes. The discotheque Oriços catches the eye, because of the very nice outside wall with street art. Further on, restaurant Esplanada Furnas  has phenomenal sea views and tasty fish. If you continue along the rocky coast, you will come to the hotel Vila Galé Ericeira, which could not have had a better location. Once you have walked around the hotel, you will reach the Praia da Baleia. Here you will find the famous Miradouro Sala das Visitas, with the benches in front of the undulating wall in blue and white and behind it the golden beach. 

Restaurants

Although I have mentioned a few restaurants already, let’s look at some more good options. Do you want to eat seafood, but prefer to do so in Ericeira instead of Ribamar? At Marisqueira Mar à Vista, a stone’s throw from the Praia dos Pescadores, only seafood is on the menu.

Two streets behind Mar à Vista is a very popular area to eat. The narrow streets are filled with the terraces of Cervejaria 7 Janelas, the PRIM steakhouse and the modern Casa Portuguesa. Each and every one of them is a wonderful place for some nice food and drinks. Are you looking for real traditional Portuguese? Then try O Gafanhoto or Canastra.

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