Igreja de São Francisco in Évora: more than the bone chapel

In the magnificent Évora, on the square Praça 1º de Maio, the Igreja de São Francisco is located. This church and monastery is one of the biggest attractions of the city, as it houses a macabre but very well-preserved bone chapel. Thousands of bones and skulls, taken from cemeteries in the city, are intended to remind visitors of their mortality. But there is much more to see and discover in this impressive church.

Royal Chapel

There had been a monastery on this site since the thirteenth century, which was probably the first home of the Order of Friars Minor in Portugal. The current church of St. Francis was built from 1480, after King Afonso V had conceived the plan to inhabit part of the monastery during his stays in Évora. This gave the church the status of a royal chapel and it therefor deserved an upgrade. However, it was only during the reign of Manuel I (1495-1521) that the church reached its artistic magnificence. In this wealthy sixteenth century, the complex was also called the Monastery of Gold.

Mix of styles

The size of the church is impressive, with a height of no less than 24 meters. It is a building in Gothic-Manueline style. When you stand in front of the church, the narthex stands out with its different shaped arches. This is a good example of the various styles you see in and around this church. The entrance has a clear Manueline portal, with the coat of arms of Portugal and the armillary spheres as an obvious feature.

Inside, you can see the huge nave, without support pillars, and the high stone cross vault. Ogival arches give access to the aisles with richly decorated altars. Enjoy tile panels of blue and white azulejos, paintings by Portuguese and Flemish artists, the typical Portuguese talha dourada (gilded woodcarvings), and marble statues.

Capela dos Ossos

The most famous chapel is of course the Capela dos Ossos. It was built in the seventeenth century to remind visitors of their mortality and the importance of living a constant life to the glory of God. Upon entering, it says above the door: “Nós ossos que aqui estamos, pelos vossos esperamos”, or “Us bones that lie here are awaiting yours”.

An estimated five thousand bodies were exhumed to obtain enough skulls and bones. The monks attached the bones in different patterns to the walls and eight pillars of the chapel. In the nineteenth century, decorative frescoes of macabre scenes were painted on the ceiling. Much friendlier is the modern addition of the tile panel by the famous Portuguese architect Álvaro Siza Vieira. He illustrated two nativity scenes, which form a counterpart to the death that is central to the chapel.

The museum

Further in the monastery is the museum with religious art and objects from the Franciscans of Évora. This used to be the monks’ dormitory, which fell into disrepair after the ban on monastic orders in 1834. A major renovation in 2014-2015 turned it into a museum with spacious rooms. On display are paintings, sculptures and silverware, as well as more background information about religious and social life in Évora.

Nativity scenes

At the very top of the monastery you find the Colecção dos Presépios, or collection of nativity scenes. It´s even nice to visit in the midst of summer. The scenes come from a private collection of Major-General Fernando Canha da Silva and his wife, who have lived in Évora since 1971. The collection consists of 2600 nativity scenes with a total of 6300 parts. Just over half of them are made in Portugal, but you can also find nativity scenes from every other corner of the world.

Practical

• The Igreja de São Francisco is open almost every day (except New Year’s Day, Easter Sunday and 24 and 25 December)
• Mass is also celebrated daily in the church
• You buy one entrance ticket, which gives you direct access to all areas
• For up-to-date opening hours and prices, check the church’s website
• Plan about an hour for a visit

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