Back to royal times at the Palácio Nacional de Mafra

Imposing is the first word that comes to mind when talking about the Palácio Nacional de Mafra. As soon as you enter the street, the royal palace makes a deep impression. The 220-metre-long façade, the large bell towers and the vast square in front of the palace instantly make you feel you’re in a special place. They also tell you that you have to be up for a walk, because it is all so big. Indeed, before you know it, you will have covered a few kilometers in this treasure of the Portuguese Baroque. But rest assured, there are nice terraces waiting for you across the street.

Background

A visit to the Palácio Nacional de Mafra is a must for the architecture lover or for those who want to get a glimpse of how the last kings of Portugal lived. It is located about forty kilometers northwest of Lisbon and consists of the royal chambers, a basilica, monastery, library and large hunting grounds. All in all, it covers an area of more than 1200 hectares, right in the center of Mafra. This is Portugal’s largest national monument and it has been on the list of Unesco World Heritage since 2019.

The last king to spend the night here was Manuel II. After the assassination of his father and older brother in 1908, the unstable Portuguese monarchy came under increasing pressure from the republicans. In 1910 there was a revolution in which the royal palace in Lisbon was bombed and Manuel II had to flee to Mafra. It was in this palace that he spent the last night before fleeing to the United Kingdom with his mother and grandmother. A year later, the Republican government had already renamed the palace a museum. The former monastery is now partly used by the Portuguese army.

Baroque

The Palácio Nacional de Mafra is the most important monument of Baroque architecture in Portugal. It was commissioned by King João V (1689-1750), who enlisted the help of great architects and artists from France, Italy, Flanders and Germany. Construction began in 1711 under the direction of João Frederico Ludovice. On October 22, 1730, the king’s 41st birthday, the basilica was consecrated.

In the center of the building is the basilica, whose two bell towers are the starting point of perfect symmetry. The carillons, from Flanders, consist of no less than 92 bells, unprecedented for that time. Other baroque elements can be found in abundance when you enter the palace by climbing the stairs. It begins with the long gallery of great Italian sculptures. Inside the basilica, Baroque paintings and religious decorations fill the room. Striking here are the six organs and the multi-coloured Lioz marble laid in patterns.

The Royal Chambers

From the gallery, you can walk to the entrance of the royal palace. Only part of the palace is open to the public, but it will still be more than you can take in. On the ground floor you first get an impression of monastic life with the kitchen, the nursing room and some sleeping cells. Then, on the first floor, you will begin a route through forty-three rooms. From the bedrooms of various Portuguese kings to their games room and from dining rooms to the music room. Also striking is the hunting room, where antlers are the basis of furniture and decoration.

The highlight is the library, which is located at the very back of the palace. You’ll definitely want to take a look here. There are more than 30,000 books in a single room of 1000 square meters. The subjects are, for example, the Enlightenment, religious themes and science. There are also a number of unique books, such as the very first Latin translation of the Koran and unique sheet music. You can’t look at the library up close though; because of the vulnerability it is important to keep everyone at a distance.

Around the Palácio Nacional

If the visit has made you tired, you can choose from many different terraces, bakeries and restaurants in Mafra to regain your strength. A good recommendation to eat is Restaurante Brasão on the Travessa Manuel Esteves. Also nice is a visit to the souvenir shop Loja Artesanato on Rua Detrás dos Quintais.

To complete your royal visit, you can also visit the Tapada Nacional de Mafra. This is the former hunting ground of the royal family. Red deer, fallow deer and wild boar live here, as well as special bats and birds of prey, such as Bonelli’s Eagle. You can hike on your own in this forest of more than 800 hectares or set off with a guide (limited availability).

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