Convento de Cristo, Tomar

This impressive monument on the hill above the town of Tomar is my favorite monument in Portugal. And that’s saying something, because there are so many great monuments in this country. My heart goes out to the Convento de Cristo because it is full of history and mystery, but also because it is simply beautiful. You can wander through the endless cloisters, discover new spaces via winding staircases and search for so many details in the exceptional church. This complex has developed through centuries of construction and renovation works. But is all feels so united through the nice, serene atmosphere in every space.

The Order of the Knights Templar

It all started with Gualdim Pais (1118-1195), a Portuguese crusader, and Knight Templar under the first king of Portugal, Afonso Henriques. In the king’s army, he fought his way from the north of Portugal to the south, pushing the Moors further and further back. After the battles against the Moors, Gualdim Pais left for Palestine, as part of the crusades of the Order of the Knights Templar. On his return to Portugal, he was appointed fourth Preceptor of the Order in Portugal. The Knights Templar had received from the king a strip of land between the Tagus and Mondego rivers. This was where Master Gualdim Pais decided to build the new headquarters of the Knights Templar. In 1160 he ordered the construction of a castle and convent, which we now know as the Convento de Cristo. Gualdim Pais lived here until his death in 1195.

Ordem de Cristo

In 1307, the Ordem dos Templários was banned by the French King Philip IV and Pope Clement V. They wanted to get rid of the power and wealth that the order had accumulated. A papal bull of 1312 declared that the Order of the Knights Templar had been abolished. All possessions were to be transferred to the Order of Malta (the Knights Hospitaller). In almost all of Europe, former Templars were persecuted and executed, but in Portugal things turned out differently. Here, King Dom Dinis accepted the crusaders and ensured their survival by creating a new order called Ordem de Cristo (1317). All the possessions of the Knights Templar became the property of this new order, including the castle and monastery in Tomar.

Maze

While the construction of the complex had begun in the twelfth century, it was constantly being changed and expanded over the centuries. Until the late seventeenth century, new parts were added to the complex, making it a maze of eight different cloisters, some with two floors. In addition to these cloisters, there are other areas to explore, such as the dining room, kitchen, and the friars’ sleeping area.

Age of Discovery

One of the commissioners for new rooms in the convent was the well-known Prince Henry the Navigator. He organised and financed several overseas expeditions that marked the start of the great Portuguese Discoveries. In 1420 he was appointed Grand Master of the Order of Christ. Since then, the order’s distinctive red cross has been depicted on Portuguese sails. He lived in Tomar for a while and remained Grand Master until his death in 1460. This makes the Convento de Cristo also significant for this crucial period in Portuguese history.

Charola

The highlight of a visit to the Convento de Cristo is undoubtedly the Charola from the twelfth century. This was the chapel where the knights could pray in silence. The chapel has sixteen sides and a beautifully painted octagonal prism in the middle. The story goes that the knights used to ride in here with their horses and you can indeed imagine that a knight on horseback would fit under each of the arches. There is so much beauty to see in the Charola, such as sculptures, wood carvings, painted leather, murals and plasterwork. Much of this decoration was not added to the Charola until later centuries, and parts of it were only recently discovered and uncovered.

Manueline window

Another unique part of the Convento de Cristo is the window in the Portuguese Manueline style from 1515. When I visited it years ago, it was full of dirt and moss, but now it has been completely cleaned. It is no less than four meters high and richly decorated with typical elements of the Manueline style, such as ship cables, knots, armillary spheres and branches. The coat of arms of Portugal and the cross of the order are also present. You can view the window from different floors, but the best view is from a small window in a friars’ cell in the dormitorium.

Casa do Capítulo

From the outside, the ruins of the Casa do Capítulo are very striking, but inside you have to follow the signs to find this space. It was built at the beginning of the sixteenth century, at the time of King Manuel I, but it was never finished. Nevertheless, Philip I of Portugal organized important meetings there, during which carpets covered the unfinished walls and sails served as the ceiling.

From convent to monument

All monastic orders were banned in Portugal in 1834, including the Order of Christ. The name was retained, but now as an Order of Merit, with the Grand Mastership coinciding with the Portuguese crown. In 1910, the Portuguese monarchy came to an end, and the order was abolished. In 1917 the order was reinstated, this time with the Portuguese president at its head. Today it is called the Ordem Militar de Cristo, which is awarded to individuals who have rendered exceptional service to the Portuguese Republic.

After 1834, the Convento de Cristo was partly the residence of the Count of Tomar. Maria II, Queen of Portugal, also lived in the convent for a while. At the end of the nineteenth century, parts of the building were made available to the Portuguese army as a military hospital. In 1939, the heirs of the Count of Tomar were bought out by the state and later the Portuguese army also left the complex. At the end of the twentieth century, everything was in the possession of the state and, as now, it was only used for cultural and tourist purposes. Since 1910, the Convento de Cristo has been an official national monument and since 1983 also a Unesco World Heritage Site.

Practical

• On the website of the Convento de Cristo you will find everything you need to plan your visit
• Take at least an hour and a half to visit the Convento de Cristo alone. Take extra time to see the castle and gardens surrounding the convent.
• There is not much parking available, but with a bit of luck you will find a spot. It is paid.

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