A weekend in Covelinhas | Douro Valley

The Douro region is definitely not free of tourists. No surprise, because the vineyard-covered landscape is breathtaking. Still, you can find places where you mainly meet the locals and a lot of peace and quiet. A weekend in Covelinhas is a wonderful idea to recharge an empty battery.

The village of Covelinhas is located on the right bank of the Douro, between the much more famous Peso da Régua and Pinhão, which is overrun by tourists. One reason for the peace and quiet in Covelinhas is the challenging access road. A narrow road full of blind curves winds from Peso da Régua to the east. It follows the Douro to Covelinhas and then turns north. Not a popular route for people who want to keep the Douro in sight, except for a motorcyclist here and there.

Linha do Douro

Despite this winding road, Covelinhas is still easily accessible. Several times a day, the famous Linha do Douro train runs between Porto and Pocinho. It makes a stop at Covelinhas, but although many tourists are riding the train, not many people get off here. That’s good news, because it allows you to fully enjoy the peaceful atmosphere here.

From the pretty station, you can easily walk into the village. You will soon come across a charming chapel on your right, the Capela do Senhor da Boa Passagem. From here you have a fantastic view of the village of Folgosa on the other side of the river. After the bend you can see how a small stream coming from the Douro, flows into the village. The road follows the stream for a while, then crosses it and leads you to the narrow, steep streets of Covelinhas. Walk these streets up and down, discovering the beautiful views of the landscape again and again.

Meet the locals

Covelinhas has around two hundred inhabitants. People you meet in the street, greet you with an unusual friendliness. This is a village with an older population, because it is a difficult place for young people to earn their money. Many residents of Covelinhas have experience with emigration themselves or have children who live and work abroad. Still, you’re bound to come across people of all ages.

The perfect spot to meet the locals is Café Labigo. They come there for their coffee, beer and homemade apple cake. It’s good to know that Covelinhas has little facilities like this. There is no supermarket and no restaurant, so you better come with a bag full of groceries. Café Labigo can help you out with a hot dog, a hamburger or an ice cream. And a nice view of course. Just walk up the main road and you’ll see the sign pointing you to the café.

Land of vineyards

Because there is little to no traffic through the village, the silence is phenomenal. Bird chirping and a dog bark here and there, is all you hear. Except when the train comes by, of course, but that’s only a few times a day. At night you can hear owls and see bats.

Covelinhas is the perfect place for a slow hike. If you’re not afraid of some elevation, it’s nice to walk to the Miradouro São Leonardo de Galafura. This viewpoint is definitely worth the effort. You can do this circular hike in about four hours, but make sure to take your time to fully appreciate the endless vineyards, orange trees and magical Douro river. This walk also takes you to restaurant São Leonardo that offers traditional Portuguese food for lunch and dinner (closed on Tuesdays).

Where to stay

This tiny, quiet village does have some options to stay the night. Most are self serviced apartments or houses. I personally loved my stay at the Casa do Rio, with its amazing view and the most delicious oranges. But if you want more of a hotel experience, check out the Quinta das Murças. This wine estate has five rooms and offers the full winemaking experience. Whatever you choose, try to get something with a Douro view. It is so nice to just sit and watch the river, the passing boats and hovering birds of prey. 

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